Southern-Style Macaroni & Cheese

My grandmama’s recipe for Southern Mac & Cheese made the traditional “custard-style” way using eggs and evaporated milk then baked to golden, cheesy perfection.

IN A HURRY? JUMP AHEAD IF YOU'D LIKE:

1. JUMP TO RECIPE
2. WHAT IS SOUTHERN-STYLE MACARONI & CHEESE?
3. BASIC TECHNIQUE FOR MAKING IT
4. MY PREFERENCES FOR MAKING THE BEST

Nanny’s Macaroni & Cheese was, hands-down, my absolute favorite of all the things she cooked. Though her 12-layer banana cake, chicken n’ dumplings and greasy rice all hold special places in my heart, there was nothing – and I mean NOTHING – that was more delicious or more requested than her macaroni and cheese.

Let me just slide in a quick note here… I’m talking about the baked custard-style macaroni and cheese (sometimes called “macaroni pie”) that we make here in my part of the South, not stove-top or the kind made using a roux or béchamel sauce.

When I got a little age on me and started helping out in her kitchen (cooking, that is, not my default position as the rinser and dryer in the two-man dishwashing operation my cousin, Lisa, and I were stationed at from the time we were old enough to reach the sink), I really paid attention to how she made it. Because when I grew up I knew I wanted to cook it just like her!

So when I grew up, I made it like hers! And it was good. But it wasn’t Nanny’s.

I always did everything the same except, instead of using canned evaporated milk, I used half and half or a combo of milk and cream. Because Ms. Fancy-Pants Chef Extraordinaire here thought she knew better than to use stinky ol’ canned milk. 

Pffffft. What an idiot.

A few weeks ago I ran across this article from Serious Eats (the BEST website for recipe technique) about how using evaporated milk is essential for making smooth cheese sauces and then I had a macaroni and cheese EPIPHANY.

tick tick tick tick tick tick tick CLICK

It suddenly all made sense. Definitely read the article (and the ones linked in it) for the details but, in a nutshell, what they will tell you is that for a velvety smooth and ultra-creamy cheese sauce, you need evaporated milk because of the high volume of milk proteins which adds stability to cheesy sauces.

I’m sorry, Nanny!! You were right! And I was wrong! I’ll never question your recipes again!

Our grandmamas probably didn’t know any of the science that went into it and were simply using the ingredients they were accustomed to cooking with having grown up during the Great Depression and/or World Wars but that canned evaporated milk is THE secret ingredient to rich, velvety smooth macaroni and cheese!

Many of you never stopped using it and are rolling your eyes and shaking your head at me for thinking I knew better.

I know, sista. I know.

WHAT IS SOUTHERN-STYLE MACARONI & CHEESE?

There are basically three types of macaroni and cheese (well, there are more if you include the blue box and other such packaged kits). The three types are stove-top, baked with bechamel sauce (flour/cheese roux) and baked in cheese custard.

Southern-style macaroni and cheese is the latter, wherein the noodles are baked in a custard made with shredded cheese, eggs and evaporated milk.

Southern-style macaroni and cheese yields a gooey, cheesy custard that's both creamy and slightly coagulated. The more it cools, the firmer it becomes and where it's best to eat on the temperature timeline is entirely up to you. Some folks want it right out of the oven when it's still a little soupy, some like it best when it's cooled off some and had time to set up a bit and some folks love it cold when you can literally slice it with a knife.

THE BASIC TECHNIQUE FOR MAKING SOUTHERN-STYLE MACARONI & CHEESE

Every southern cook has his or her own special little something they add when making mac & cheese but the basic way to make it is like this:

1. Layer boiled macaroni noodles and shredded cheddar cheese in a baking dish.
2. Mix eggs, evaporated milk and spices in a separate bowl to make a custard mixture.
3. Pour the custard mixture over the layered noodles and cheese, top with pats of butter then bake.

MY PREFERENCES FOR MAKING THE BEST SOUTHERN-STYLE MACARONI & CHEESE

• As I mentioned above, it took me while to figure it out, but THE BEST mac & cheese is made with evaporated milk.
• Do NOT use preshredded cheese as it is coated in anti-clumping agents which will make the custard dry and curdled. 
• I prefer to use mild or medium cheddar cheese, not sharp. Sharp cheddar has more flavor but it is firmer and doesn't melt as creamily. A compromise could be to use half sharp cheddar and half American cheese. You will get the flavor from the sharp cheddar and creamier consistency from the American. If using American, reduce the salt a bit because it is usually much saltier than cheddar cheese.
• The best rule of thumb for making the custard is to use 1 egg for each can of evaporated milk. Your custard mixture needs to cover the noodles so if you increase the recipe or don't have quite enough custard mixture, mix up an egg with another can of milk (or 1.5 cups of regular milk if you don't have another can of milk).
• I think the best TASTING macaroni and cheese has a little cayenne pepper and dry mustard powder in addition to the salt and pepper. I also add a dash of white pepper because it has that little je ne sais quoi but I don't list it in the recipe because I KNOW Nanny didn't use it in hers and this is Nanny's recipe.

Recipe for Southern-Style Macaroni & Cheese

Southern-Style Macaroni & Cheese

Yield: 14-16 servings

Author: Mandy Rivers | South Your Mouth

Prep time: 15 MinCook time: 45 MinInactive time: 20 MinTotal time: 1 H & 20 M

My grandma’s recipe for Southern Mac & Cheese made the traditional “custard-style” way using eggs and evaporated milk then baked to golden, cheesy perfection.

Ingredients

• 1 pound elbow macaroni noodles
• 24 ounces cheddar cheese, shredded
• 3 12-oz cans evaporated milk
• 3 eggs
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon pepper
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard powder
• Pinch of cayenne pepper
• 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) butter

Instructions

1. Cook noodles in liberally salted water one minute less than the package instructions for al dente preparation. Drain noodles then set aside.
2. While noodles are cooking, shred cheese, reserving two cups of cheese for the top layer.
3. Combine evaporated milk, eggs, salt, pepper, mustard powder and cayenne pepper in a large bowl and mix thoroughly (make sure the eggs are well combined into the mixture).
4. Spray a 3-quart 13x9 baking dish with cooking spray.
5. Layer noodles and cheese evenly into baking dish (aim for about 4 layers of noodles.
6. Sprinkle reserved 2 cups of cheese evenly over everything then pour milk mixture evenly over noodles and cheese.
7. Cut butter into thin pats then place them evenly on top of cheese.
8. Bake, uncovered for 40-45 minutes at 350 degrees or until cheese is lightly browned and dish is bubbly.
9. Remove from oven then let rest 20 minutes before serving. Don't skip this step... if you dig into this right out of the oven the inside will be soupy. The dish needs time to "set up".

Notes

• Use regular macaroni or jumbo macaroni noodles.
• We’re undercooking our noodles just a smidge so they will hold up during the baking process.
• You absolutely MUST shred your own cheese. Pre-shredded cheese is coated with anti-clumping agents like cellulose (which is actually powdered wood pulp) which dries out your finished cooked dishes. It is also harder than cheese you shred yourself so it doesn’t melt as smooth and creamy. Just trust me here… buy a $10 box grater from Wal-Mart and shred your own cheese. It only takes a couple minutes!
• You can use a combination of cheddar and other soft cheeses if you prefer – just make sure the majority of the cheese is cheddar. I usually don’t use sharp cheddar as it’s firmer and doesn’t melt as smoothly.
• If you want to add some Velveeta to your cheese go for it. Some people swear by it and others spit on the floor at the mention of it. If you do use Velveeta, reduce the salt to 1 teaspoon.
• I actually add 1/4 teaspoon of white pepper to mine but I’m sure Nanny never did so I didn’t include it in the recipe above.
• You can easily reduce this recipe. Just use one egg for each can of milk and adjust everything else accordingly. 

https://www.southyourmouth.com/2018/02/southern-style-macaroni-cheese.html

Images and text © South Your Mouth LLC 2018

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